Introduction
Intensive hair masks provide deep nourishment and repair for damaged, dry, or chemically treated hair. This formulation guide focuses on combining natural oils, conditioning agents, keratin proteins, amino acids, and botanical extracts to restore hair strength, softness, and manageability. The goal is a rich, stable oil-in-water emulsion that delivers intensive conditioning, smoothness, and scalp health benefits.
Product Overview & Key Claims
- Deeply conditions and intensely repairs damaged hair
- Strengthens hair structure with keratin and amino acids
- Nourishes using a blend of natural oils (coconut, sunflower, argan, sweet almond)
- Smoothes and detangles hair via cationic conditioning agents and silicones
- Supports scalp and hair health with botanical extracts and humectants
- Offers a rich texture and pleasant fragrance for a premium sensory experience
Ingredient Functional Roles & Recommended Usage
| INCI Name | Function | Recommended Usage (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent | 50 – 65 |
| Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | Emollient, nourishing oil | 3 – 6 |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Emollient, thickener, stabilizer | 3 – 6 |
| Cetriomonium Chloride | Conditioning agent, antistatic | 1 – 3 |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil | Emollient, antioxidant oil | 1 – 3 |
| Behentrimonium Chloride | Conditioning agent, detangler | 1 – 3 |
| Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | Emollient, nourishing oil | 1 – 3 |
| Dipalmitoylethyl Dimonium Chloride | Conditioning agent, antistatic | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Emollient, thickener | 1 – 3 |
| Dimethicone | Silicone conditioning agent | 0.5 – 2 |
| Glycerin | Humectant, moisturizing | 1 – 3 |
| Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate | Conditioning agent | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.5 – 1 |
| Tetrasodium EDTA | Chelating agent | 0.05 – 0.15 |
| Propylene Glycol | Humectant, solvent | 1 – 3 |
| Benzyl Alcohol | Preservative, solvent | 0.5 – 1 |
| Argania Spinosa Kernel (Argan) Oil | Emollient, antioxidant oil | 1 – 3 |
| Butylene Glycol | Humectant, solvent | 1 – 3 |
| Keratin | Hair strengthening protein | 0.5 – 2 |
| Hydrolyzed Keratin | Protein fragment for repair | 0.5 – 2 |
| Oxidized Keratin | Modified keratin for repair | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Sodium PCA | Natural moisturizing factor | 0.2 – 0.6 |
| Sodium Lactate | Humectant, moisturizing | 0.2 – 0.6 |
| Amino Acids (Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine) | Conditioning, moisturizing amino acids | 0.1 – 0.5 each |
| Botanical Extracts (e.g., Citrus Limon, Houttuynia Cordata, Juglans Regia, etc.) | Antioxidant, soothing | 0.1 – 0.5 each |
| 1,2 Hexanediol | Humectant, solvent, preservative booster | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Panthenol | Pro-vitamin B5, moisturizing and repairing | 0.5 – 2 |
| Biotin | Vitamin B7, hair strengthener | 0.01 – 0.05 |
| Perfume | Fragrance | 0.2 – 0.5 |
Formulation Strategy
The formulation is a rich oil-in-water emulsion designed to deliver deep conditioning and intense repair. The blend of natural oils provides nourishment and softness, while the cationic conditioning agents and silicones ensure detangling and smooth hair feel. Keratin proteins and amino acids strengthen hair fibers. Botanical extracts and humectants support scalp health and moisture retention. A mild preservative system protects product integrity without compromising safety.
Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua | 55 | 55 |
| A | Cetearyl Alcohol | 5 | 5 |
| A | Cetyl Alcohol | 2 | 2 |
| A | Glycerin | 2 | 2 |
| A | Propylene Glycol | 2 | 2 |
| A | Butylene Glycol | 2 | 2 |
| B | Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | 4 | 4 |
| B | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil | 2 | 2 |
| B | Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil | 2 | 2 |
| B | Argania Spinosa Kernel (Argan) Oil | 2 | 2 |
| B | Dimethicone | 1 | 1 |
| B | Keratin | 1 | 1 |
| B | Hydrolyzed Keratin | 1 | 1 |
| B | Oxidized Keratin | 1 | 1 |
| B | Cetriomonium Chloride | 2 | 2 |
| B | Behentrimonium Chloride | 2 | 2 |
| B | Dipalmitoylethyl Dimonium Chloride | 1 | 1 |
| B | Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate | 1 | 1 |
| B | Sodium PCA | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| B | Sodium Lactate | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| B | Amino Acids (total) | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| B | Botanical Extracts (total) | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| C | Panthenol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Biotin | 0.03 | 0.03 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Benzyl Alcohol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Tetrasodium EDTA | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| C | 1,2 Hexanediol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Perfume | 0.3 | 0.3 |
Manufacturing Protocol
Phase A (Water Phase):
- Heat Aqua, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Cetyl Alcohol to ~75°C under stirring until completely melted and uniform.
Phase B (Oil & Conditioning Phase):
- Blend oils (Coconut, Sunflower, Sweet Almond, Argan), Dimethicone, conditioning agents (Cetriomonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate), keratin proteins, amino acids, sodium PCA, sodium lactate, and botanical extracts.
- Heat to ~75°C and mix well.
Emulsification:
- Slowly add Phase B into Phase A under high shear mixing to form a stable emulsion.
- Maintain mixing and temperature until uniform.
Cooling Phase:
- Cool batch to ~40°C.
- Add Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Tetrasodium EDTA, 1,2 Hexanediol, Panthenol, Biotin, and Perfume.
- Mix gently but thoroughly.
Final Steps:
- Adjust pH if necessary to 4.5 – 5.5.
- Package in airtight containers.
Stability & Quality Testing
| Test | Conditions | Duration | Acceptance Criteria |
| Accelerated Stability | 45°C, ambient humidity | 1 month | No phase separation or odor change |
| Freeze-Thaw Cycles | -5°C to 25°C, 3 cycles | – | Emulsion remains stable |
| Microbial Challenge | USP <51> | – | Preservative efficacy maintained |
| Viscosity & pH | Ambient | 3 months | Consistent viscosity and pH |
Packaging Suggestions
- Use wide-mouth jars or tubes made of PET or HDPE for ease of application.
- Opaque packaging is recommended to protect sensitive botanical actives from light degradation.
Summary
This professional intensive repair hair mask formulation integrates a synergistic blend of natural oils, keratin proteins, cationic conditioning agents, amino acids, and botanical extracts. The result is a rich, deeply nourishing hair treatment that repairs damage, strengthens hair fibers, and delivers a premium sensory experience.
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