Introduction
Vitamin C sleeping masks have become essential overnight skincare products offering antioxidant protection, skin brightening, collagen support, and barrier restoration. A carefully designed sleeping mask promotes skin regeneration during rest, resulting in hydrated, radiant, and even-toned skin by morning.
This guide outlines the formulation strategy for a Vitamin C Brightening Sleeping Mask featuring stabilized Vitamin C derivatives and complementary botanical actives. It follows cosmetic chemistry principles, stability and safety standards, and complies with regulatory frameworks in the EU, ASEAN, and India.
Product Overview & Key Claims
This gel-cream hybrid sleeping mask:
- Brightens skin tone and reduces pigmentation
- Supports collagen synthesis for improved skin elasticity
- Provides antioxidant protection against oxidative stress
- Hydrates and soothes overnight, leaving skin plumped and refreshed
Key Claims:
- Triple Vitamin C complex (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Yuzu Extract)
- Non-comedogenic, non-irritating, suitable for all skin types
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing, leave-on overnight formula
Ingredient Analysis, Functional Roles, and Recommended Amounts
| INCI Name | Function | Recommended Range (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent (base) | 55.00 – 65.00 |
| Glycerin | Humectant, moisturization | 3.00 – 6.00 |
| Citrus Junos (Yuzu) Fruit Extract | Botanical active, antioxidant, collagen boost | 0.50 – 2.00 |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Stable Vitamin C derivative, brightening | 1.00 – 3.00 |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Antioxidant, collagen synthesis boost | 1.00 – 2.00 |
| Niacinamide | Brightening, barrier support | 2.00 – 5.00 |
| Panthenol | Pro-vitamin B5, moisturizing, soothing | 0.50 – 1.00 |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Hydration and skin plumping | 0.05 – 0.30 |
| Allantoin | Skin soothing agent | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Carbomer | Gelling/thickening agent | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Xanthan Gum | Stabilizer, co-thickener | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| Butylene Glycol | Solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer | 2.00 – 4.00 |
| Caprylyl Glycol | Skin-conditioning agent | 0.50 – 1.00 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.80 – 1.00 |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster | 0.30 – 0.70 |
| Triethanolamine or NaOH (10%) | pH adjuster (for Carbomer neutralization) | q.s. to pH 5.5–6.0 |
| Fragrance (mild citrus) (optional) | Consumer appeal | 0.10 – 0.30 |
Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua | 60.00 | 60.00 |
| A | Glycerin | 4.00 | 4.00 |
| A | Butylene Glycol | 3.00 | 3.00 |
| A | Niacinamide | 3.00 | 3.00 |
| A | Panthenol | 0.80 | 0.80 |
| A | Sodium Hyaluronate (1% soln) | 1.00 | 1.00 |
| A | Allantoin | 0.30 | 0.30 |
| A | Carbomer | 0.30 | 0.30 |
| A | Xanthan Gum | 0.20 | 0.20 |
| B | Citrus Junos Fruit Extract | 1.00 | 1.00 |
| B | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | 2.00 | 2.00 |
| B | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | 1.00 | 1.00 |
| B | Caprylyl Glycol | 0.50 | 0.50 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 0.80 | 0.80 |
| C | Ethylhexylglycerin | 0.50 | 0.50 |
| C | Triethanolamine (10%) | q.s. | ~0.40 |
| C | Fragrance (optional) | 0.20 | 0.20 |
Manufacturing Protocol (Lab-Scale)
Phase A – Base Preparation
- In sanitized vessel, add Aqua and heat to 70°C with stirring.
- Slowly disperse Carbomer and Xanthan Gum to avoid clumping. Hydrate for 30 minutes.
- Add Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Niacinamide, and Allantoin sequentially.
- Stir until fully dissolved and homogeneous.
- Cool to ~30–35°C (room temperature).
Phase B – Active Phase
6. Add Citrus Junos Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate under gentle stirring.
7. Add Sodium Hyaluronate and Caprylyl Glycol, mix until uniform.
Phase C – Final Adjustment
8. Add Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin.
9. Adjust pH to 5.5–6.0 using Triethanolamine (10%) dropwise.
10. Add fragrance if desired.
11. Mix until smooth gel-cream consistency is achieved.
12. Fill into sterile, airless containers.
Stability Testing Protocol
| Test | Condition | Frequency | Acceptance Criteria |
| Physical Appearance | 25°C, 40°C, 5°C | 0, 1, 3, 6 months | No phase separation, discoloration, or odor |
| pH | 25°C | Monthly | 5.5–6.0 |
| Viscosity | 25°C | Monthly | ±10% of initial viscosity |
| Freeze–Thaw Stability | -5°C to 25°C (3 cycles) | Post-cycle | No destabilization |
| Microbial Challenge | ISO 11930 | Initial | Pass A or B criteria |
| Light Exposure | UV/Fluorescent light | Ongoing | No darkening or yellowing |
Safety Data Summary
| Ingredient | Safety Notes |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Stable, low irritation risk, excellent skin tolerance |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Water-soluble antioxidant, well tolerated |
| Citrus Junos Extract | Natural; rare photosensitivity cases |
| Niacinamide | Non-irritating, highly compatible |
| Panthenol, Allantoin | Soothing, safe at recommended use levels |
| Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin | Broad-spectrum preservative system |
| Carbomer, Xanthan Gum | Non-toxic thickening/stabilizing agents |
Packaging Recommendations
- Primary Packaging: Airless pump jars/tubes or soft-touch laminate tubes to prevent Vitamin C oxidation.
- Material: Opaque or UV-protective packaging (PE, PET, or acrylic).
- Labeling: Include Vitamin C content, pH, usage instructions, and shelf life.
- Compatibility Testing: Mandatory for packaging with acidic actives to ensure no degradation.
Regulatory & Compliance Guidelines
| Region | Regulations/Directives |
| EU | Cosmetic Regulation EC No. 1223/2009, Annexes on preservatives |
| ASEAN | ASEAN Cosmetic Directive (ACD) |
| India | Drugs & Cosmetics Rules, BIS guidelines |
| CPSR and PET testing required, shelf-life data mandatory |
Optimization Tips & Innovation Opportunities
- Use airless packaging to enhance product stability.
- Incorporate antioxidants such as ferulic acid or Vitamin E for synergistic effects.
- Utilize microencapsulated Vitamin C derivatives to improve skin penetration.
- Offer fragrance-free variants for sensitive skin consumers.
- Explore natural gelling agents like sclerotium gum for “clean beauty” appeal.
- Consider adding probiotics or postbiotics for skin barrier enhancement.
Final Thoughts
Formulating a professional Vitamin C Brightening Sleeping Mask requires balanced ingredient selection, strict pH control, and robust preservation. Following this guide ensures development of a cosmetically elegant, stable, and regulatory-compliant product that delivers effective brightening, hydration, and antioxidant benefits overnight.
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