Introduction
Dandruff and scalp irritation are common concerns that many consumers seek to manage through specialized shampoos. Pure Growth Anti-Dandruff Shampoo is designed to effectively cleanse the scalp while targeting dandruff-causing factors and promoting healthy hair growth. This formulation balances potent surfactants, conditioning agents, botanical extracts, and targeted actives for scalp care and anti-dandruff efficacy. A professional approach to this shampoo formulation involves expertise in cosmetic chemistry, scalp microbiology, regulatory compliance, and sensory appeal.
This comprehensive guide supports formulators and cosmetic chemists aiming to develop a high-performance anti-dandruff shampoo aligned with global regulatory standards including EU, ASEAN, and India.
Product Overview & Key Claims
Pure Growth Anti-Dandruff Shampoo provides:
- Effective cleansing: Removes dirt, sebum, and impurities with high-foaming surfactants.
- Anti-dandruff efficacy: Contains Zinc Citrate and Capryloyl Glycine to inhibit dandruff-causing microbes and reduce scalp irritation.
- Scalp nourishment and hydration: Enriched with botanical extracts and humectants to soothe and moisturize the scalp.
- Hair conditioning: Silicone derivatives and quaternary polymers provide smoothness and manageability.
- Sensory appeal: Pleasant fragrance, clear/pearly appearance, and stable viscosity for a premium user experience.
Ingredient Analysis, Functional Roles, and Recommended Amounts
| INCI Name | Functional Role | Recommended Range (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent (base medium) | 50 – 60 |
| Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | Primary anionic surfactant (cleansing, foam) | 10 – 15 |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Amphoteric surfactant, foam booster, mildness | 5 – 10 |
| TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | Secondary anionic surfactant | 1 – 3 |
| Dimethicone | Silicone conditioner, smoothness enhancer | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Dimethiconol | Silicone conditioner, anti-frizz agent | 0.3 – 1.0 |
| Amodimethicone | Cationic silicone, conditioning & anti-static | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Laureth-23 | Non-ionic surfactant, emulsifier | 1 – 3 |
| Polyquaternium-10 | Conditioning polymer, detangling | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Laureth-4, Laureth-5, Laureth-23 (combined) | Emulsifiers and mild surfactants | 1 – 4 |
| PEG-55 Stearate | Emulsifier, stabilizer | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract | Scalp conditioning and anti-aging agent | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Sodium Salicylate | Keratolytic agent, scalp exfoliation | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Glycol Distearate | Pearlizing agent, opacifier | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Sodium Xylenesulfonate | Electrolyte, viscosity modifier | 0.3 – 0.7 |
| Glycerine | Humectant, skin and hair moisturizer | 1 – 3 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.8 – 1.0 |
| Zinc Citrate | Anti-dandruff active, antimicrobial agent | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | Conditioning polymer, anti-static agent | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Capryloyl Glycine | Anti-dandruff and anti-inflammatory agent | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Undecylenoyl Glycine | Anti-microbial, sebum-regulating agent | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Maris Aqua (Sea Water) | Mineral-rich hydrating agent | 1 – 3 |
| Laminaria Digitata Extract | Botanical extract with antioxidant properties | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Chlorella Vulgaris Extract | Botanical antioxidant and scalp nourisher | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Saccharide Isomerate | Moisturizer, skin and scalp hydration enhancer | 0.2 – 0.5 |
| Lavandula Stoechas Extract | Botanical extract with soothing and fragrance roles | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract | Botanical extract, scalp stimulant and anti-inflammatory | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| PEG 45M | Thickener, rheology modifier | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Perfume | Fragrance | 0.2 – 0.5 |
| CI 16035 | Synthetic colorant (Red) | 0.01 – 0.05 |
| CI 19140 | Synthetic colorant (Yellow) | 0.01 – 0.05 |
Formulation Strategy
The formulation is divided into three main phases for optimized processing:
- Phase A: Surfactant Base — Combination of primary, secondary, amphoteric, and non-ionic surfactants with water to create a balanced cleansing matrix with good foam and mildness.
- Phase B: Functional Ingredients & Conditioners — Silicone conditioning agents, polymers, botanical extracts, and anti-dandruff actives incorporated for efficacy and sensory properties.
- Phase C: Additives & Finalization — Preservatives, fragrance, colorants, and viscosity modifiers to stabilize and finish the product.
Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua | 55 | 55 |
| A | Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | 12 | 12 |
| A | Cocamidopropyl Betaine | 8 | 8 |
| A | TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | 2 | 2 |
| B | Dimethicone | 1 | 1 |
| B | Dimethiconol | 0.7 | 0.7 |
| B | Amodimethicone | 1 | 1 |
| B | Laureth-23 | 2 | 2 |
| B | Polyquaternium-10 | 1 | 1 |
| B | Laureth-4, Laureth-5, Laureth-23 (combined) | 2 | 2 |
| B | PEG-55 Stearate | 1 | 1 |
| B | Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Sodium Salicylate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Glycol Distearate | 1 | 1 |
| B | Sodium Xylenesulfonate | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| B | Glycerine | 2 | 2 |
| B | Zinc Citrate | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Capryloyl Glycine | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Undecylenoyl Glycine | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Maris Aqua | 2 | 2 |
| B | Laminaria Digitata Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Chlorella Vulgaris Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Saccharide Isomerate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Lavandula Stoechas Extract | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | PEG 45M | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 0.9 | 0.9 |
| C | Perfume | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | CI 16035 | 0.02 | 0.02 |
| C | CI 19140 | 0.02 | 0.02 |
Manufacturing Protocol for Lab-Scale Batch
Phase A: Surfactant Base Preparation
- Heat Aqua to 70–75°C under moderate stirring.
- Slowly add Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine; mix until homogeneous.
- Incorporate TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate with continuous stirring.
Phase B: Functional Ingredients Addition
- Add Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone, and emulsifiers (Laureth derivatives, PEG-55 Stearate) gradually while maintaining temperature around 50°C.
- Incorporate Polyquaternium-10, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Salicylate, Zinc Citrate, botanical extracts, humectants, and conditioning polymers with gentle mixing.
- Slowly add viscosity modifiers PEG 45M and Glycol Distearate to achieve desired consistency and pearlescent effect.
Phase C: Preservation and Final Additives
- Cool batch to 35–40°C.
- Add Phenoxyethanol preservative, fragrance, and colorants (CI 16035 and CI 19140).
- Stir gently until uniform.
- Measure and adjust pH to approximately 5.5–6.5 if needed using citric acid or TEA.
- Filter through a fine mesh (optional).
- Package under hygienic conditions.
Stability Testing Protocol
| Test Parameter | Conditions | Frequency | Acceptance Criteria |
| Physical Appearance | 25°C, 40°C, 5°C | Initial, 1, 3, 6 months | No phase separation, color or odor change |
| pH | 25°C | Initial, monthly | Stable within 5.5 – 6.5 |
| Viscosity | 25°C | Initial, monthly | Within ±10% of initial viscosity |
| Microbial Challenge | ISO 11930 | Initial | Pass microbial inhibition criteria |
| Foaming Ability | Room temperature | Initial, quarterly | High stable foam |
| Odor and Color | Room temperature | Initial, monthly | No off-odor or discoloration |
- Conduct accelerated stability at 40°C for 3 months and freeze-thaw cycles to simulate real-world conditions.
Safety Data Summary
| Ingredient | Safety Considerations |
| Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | Mild irritant at higher concentrations |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Generally mild, rare allergies possible |
| TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | Skin irritation possible; balanced formulation needed |
| Silicone derivatives | Skin safe, enhance hair manageability |
| Botanical extracts | Generally safe, watch for individual sensitivities |
| Zinc Citrate | Low toxicity, effective anti-dandruff agent |
| Phenoxyethanol | Safe within recommended limits |
| Colorants | Approved within limits; monitor for allergies |
| Preservatives and polymers | Use as per regulatory limits |
- Patch testing recommended. Ensure compliance with EU (Regulation 1223/2009), ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, and India Drugs & Cosmetics Act.
Packaging Recommendations
- Use opaque or tinted bottles to protect botanical extracts and preservatives.
- Airless pumps or flip caps for user convenience and hygiene.
- Label clearly with batch info, INCI list, usage instructions, and warnings.
- Conduct packaging compatibility and stability tests.
Regulatory & Compliance Guidelines
- Ensure all raw materials are cosmetic-grade and compliant with regional regulations.
- Adhere strictly to preservative and colorant limits.
- Perform Preservative Efficacy Testing (ISO 11930).
- Conduct dermatological and microbiological safety assessments.
- Maintain detailed documentation for audits and registrations.
Optimization Tips & Innovation Opportunities
- Explore sulfate-free or mild surfactant blends for sensitive scalps.
- Use natural extracts and essential oils to replace synthetic fragrance.
- Add advanced scalp care actives like probiotics or peptides.
- Implement biodegradable packaging for sustainability.
- Utilize AI formulation tools for batch cost and stability optimization.
Final Thoughts
Developing a high-quality anti-dandruff shampoo like Pure Growth Anti-Dandruff Shampoo requires multidisciplinary knowledge of surfactant chemistry, active efficacy, scalp biology, and safety regulations. Through careful ingredient selection, phased formulation, and comprehensive testing, you can create a product that delivers effective dandruff control, scalp nourishment, and consumer satisfaction.
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