Introduction
In the competitive personal care market, effective anti-dandruff shampoos are highly sought after for their ability to cleanse the scalp while controlling dandruff and providing a refreshing experience. This ultra-cool anti-dandruff shampoo offers a well-balanced formulation that combines potent cleansing agents, anti-dandruff actives, scalp-soothing botanicals, and a cooling sensation for enhanced consumer appeal.
This comprehensive formulation guide is designed for cosmetic chemists and formulators aiming to develop a high-performance anti-dandruff shampoo with effective cleansing, anti-dandruff efficacy, scalp care benefits, and a pleasant sensory profile. The formulation meets regulatory and safety standards for global markets, including the European Union (EU), ASEAN countries, and India.
Product Overview & Key Claims
- Effective anti-dandruff action: Utilizes zinc citrate and glycine derivatives to inhibit dandruff-causing fungi and balance scalp microbiota.
- Deep cleansing: Combines anionic and amphoteric surfactants for thorough cleansing with rich foam.
- Scalp soothing and moisturizing: Enriched with marine extracts and botanical actives to reduce irritation and hydrate the scalp.
- Ultra-cool refreshing effect: Menthol and peppermint oil provide a cooling, invigorating scalp sensation.
- Sensory appeal: Stable creamy texture with pearlizing agents and a fresh herbal fragrance.
Ingredient Analysis, Functional Roles, and Recommended Amounts
| INCI Name | Functional Role | Recommended Range (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent (base medium) | 50.00 – 60.00 |
| Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | Primary anionic surfactant, cleansing & foam | 10.00 – 15.00 |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Amphoteric surfactant, mild cleanser & foam booster | 6.00 – 10.00 |
| Dimethiconol | Silicone, conditioning agent | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | Anionic surfactant, foam booster | 1.00 – 2.00 |
| Dimethicone | Silicone, conditioning and smoothing agent | 0.10 – 0.50 |
| Amodimethicone | Silicone, anti-frizz and conditioning | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Laureth-23 | Nonionic surfactant, emulsifier | 0.50 – 2.00 |
| Polyquaternium-10 | Conditioning polymer | 0.10 – 0.40 |
| Laureth-4 | Emulsifier and surfactant | 0.30 – 1.00 |
| Laureth-5 | Emulsifier and surfactant | 0.30 – 1.00 |
| Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract | Marine-derived conditioning and soothing agent | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| Sodium Salicylate | Keratolytic agent, anti-inflammatory | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Glycol Distearate | Pearlizing agent | 0.50 – 1.50 |
| Sodium Xylenesulfonate | Electrolyte, viscosity modifier | 0.20 – 0.60 |
| Glycerine | Humectant, moisturizer | 1.00 – 3.00 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.80 – 1.00 |
| Zinc Citrate | Anti-dandruff active | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | Conditioning polymer | 0.10 – 0.40 |
| Capryloyl Glycine | Scalp conditioning and anti-dandruff | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| Undecylenoyl Glycine | Anti-dandruff and sebum control | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| Maris Aqua (Sea Water) | Mineral-rich solvent, scalp care | 1.00 – 3.00 |
| Laminaria Digitata Extract | Marine botanical extract, soothing | 0.10 – 0.40 |
| Chlorella Vulgaris Extract | Algal extract, antioxidant | 0.10 – 0.30 |
| Saccharide Isomerate | Moisturizer and skin barrier support | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Lavandula Stoechas Extract | Botanical extract, fragrance, soothing | 0.05 – 0.20 |
| Menthol | Cooling agent | 0.20 – 0.50 |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | Vitamin E, antioxidant | 0.05 – 0.20 |
| PEG-45M | Thickener and stabilizer | 0.30 – 0.70 |
| Peppermint Oil | Fragrance and scalp stimulant | 0.05 – 0.20 |
| Perfume | Fragrance | 0.20 – 0.40 |
| CI 42040 | Blue colorant | 0.01 – 0.03 |
Formulation Strategy
The formulation is divided into key phases to optimize ingredient incorporation, stability, and efficacy:
- Phase A: Surfactant Base — Water and primary surfactants (SLES, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate) for cleansing and foaming.
- Phase B: Conditioning and Active Ingredients — Silicones (Dimethicone, Amodimethicone), marine extracts, anti-dandruff actives (Zinc Citrate, Capryloyl Glycine), botanical extracts, and humectants.
- Phase C: Additives and Finishers — Preservatives, cooling agents (Menthol), fragrance, colorants, and viscosity modifiers.
Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua | 55.0 | 55.0 |
| A | Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | 12.0 | 12.0 |
| A | Cocamidopropyl Betaine | 8.0 | 8.0 |
| A | TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| B | Dimethiconol | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Dimethicone | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Amodimethicone | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Laureth-23 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| B | Polyquaternium-10 | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Laureth-4 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| B | Laureth-5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| B | Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Sodium Salicylate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Glycol Distearate | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| B | Sodium Xylenesulfonate | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| B | Glycerine | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| B | Zinc Citrate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Capryloyl Glycine | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Undecylenoyl Glycine | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Maris Aqua | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| B | Laminaria Digitata Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Chlorella Vulgaris Extract | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Saccharide Isomerate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Lavandula Stoechas Extract | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| C | Menthol | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| C | Tocopheryl Acetate | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| C | PEG-45M | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| C | Peppermint Oil | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 0.9 | 0.9 |
| C | Perfume | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | CI 42040 | 0.02 | 0.02 |
Manufacturing Protocol for Lab-Scale Batch
Phase A: Surfactant Base Preparation
- Heat Aqua to 65–70°C under moderate stirring.
- Add Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate sequentially with stirring until uniform.
- Maintain temperature and mix thoroughly.
Phase B: Conditioning & Actives Incorporation
- Add Dimethiconol, Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Laureth-23, Polyquaternium-10, Laureth-4, Laureth-5 and stir until homogeneous.
- Introduce Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Salicylate, Glycol Distearate (preheated if necessary), Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Glycerine, Zinc Citrate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl Glycine, Maris Aqua, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, and Lavandula Stoechas Extract with gentle mixing.
- Maintain batch temperature at 45–50°C.
Phase C: Cooling and Final Additions
- Cool batch to 35–40°C.
- Add Menthol, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-45M, Peppermint Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Perfume, and CI 42040 with slow stirring.
- Adjust pH to 5.5–6.5 if necessary using citric acid or TEA.
- Check and adjust viscosity and clarity.
- Filter if required through a 100-micron mesh.
- Fill into appropriate containers under hygienic conditions.
Stability Testing Protocol
| Test Parameter | Conditions | Frequency | Acceptance Criteria |
| Physical Appearance | 25°C, 40°C, 5°C | Initial, 1, 3, 6 months | No phase separation, sedimentation, or color change |
| pH | 25°C | Initial, monthly | 5.5 – 6.5 |
| Viscosity | 25°C | Initial, monthly | ±10% of initial value |
| Microbial Challenge Test | ISO 11930 protocol | Initial | Pass all microbial inhibition criteria |
| Cooling Effect & Sensory | Room temp | Initial, quarterly | Consistent cooling sensation and pleasant fragrance |
| Odor and Color | Room temp | Initial, monthly | No off-odor; consistent color |
- Include accelerated stability testing at 40°C for 3 months.
- Freeze-thaw cycles for physical stability.
- Perform Preservative Efficacy Test (PET) per ISO 11930.
Safety Data Summary
| Ingredient | Safety Considerations |
| Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate | Mild irritant at high levels; balanced in formula |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Generally mild; rare allergy reports |
| Silicones (Dimethicone variants) | Safe, improve feel and reduce irritation |
| Zinc Citrate | Anti-dandruff active with low irritation risk |
| Botanical Extracts | Safe within recommended concentrations |
| Menthol | Cooling agent; may irritate sensitive scalps |
| Phenoxyethanol | Safe within limits |
| Perfume and Colorants | Use cosmetic-grade; possible allergen |
- Conduct patch testing of the final product.
- Adhere to regional regulatory guidelines for preservatives, colorants, and fragrance.
Packaging Recommendations
- Use opaque or UV-protected containers to preserve sensitive actives.
- Prefer PET or HDPE bottles with flip-top or pump dispensers.
- Label clearly with INCI, batch number, expiration, and safety instructions.
- Conduct compatibility tests under accelerated conditions.
Regulatory & Compliance Guidelines
- Verify all raw materials meet cosmetic-grade standards.
- Follow restrictions on preservatives and actives (e.g., zinc citrate concentration).
- Conduct microbiological and dermatological testing.
- Prepare Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR).
- Register products with appropriate authorities (EU CPNP, ASEAN, CDSCO India).
Optimization Tips & Innovation Opportunities
- Substitute synthetic surfactants with natural alternatives for green certification.
- Enhance scalp benefits with probiotics or prebiotics.
- Use natural colorants and essential oil blends for fragrance.
- Implement sustainable and refillable packaging.
- Employ nanotechnology to improve active delivery.
- Use AI-driven formulation software to optimize ingredient costs and performance.
Final Thoughts
Formulating a high-quality, effective anti-dandruff shampoo demands expertise in surfactant chemistry, active ingredient compatibility, and sensory design. Meticulous formulation, stability, safety testing, and regulatory compliance are crucial for market success.
FormulaAlchemy is your trusted partner for product development, scale-up, and private label manufacturing to bring your vision to life with confidence.
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