Introduction
Dandruff remains a common scalp concern characterized by flaking and irritation. Developing an effective anti-dandruff shampoo requires balancing cleansing surfactants, conditioning agents, targeted actives, and soothing ingredients. This guide provides cosmetic chemists and formulators a comprehensive blueprint to create a high-performance shampoo that cleanses, protects, and conditions the scalp, while meeting global regulatory standards.
Product Overview & Key Claims
This extreme defense anti-dandruff shampoo is formulated to:
• Provide thorough cleansing with mild to moderate surfactants
• Combat dandruff with zinc pyrithione and salicylic acid
• Condition and smooth hair using silicone and polymer complexes
• Maintain scalp health and hydration with panthenol and glycerin
• Offer a pleasing sensory experience with stable viscosity, fragrance, and color
Ingredient Analysis, Functional Roles, and Recommended Amounts
| INCI Name | Functional Role | Recommended Range (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent (base) | 50 – 60 |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate | Primary anionic surfactant, foaming agent | 10 – 15 |
| Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate | Anionic surfactant, cleansing | 5 – 10 |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Amphoteric surfactant, mild foam booster | 3 – 6 |
| Decyl Glucoside | Mild non-ionic surfactant | 1 – 3 |
| Dimethicone | Silicone conditioning agent | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Amodimethicone | Silicone polymer, conditioning & smoothing | 0.3 – 0.8 |
| Laureth-23 | Emulsifier and surfactant | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Laureth-4 | Surfactant and emulsifier | 0.3 – 1 |
| Dimethiconol | Silicone conditioning polymer | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | Anionic surfactant for foam stabilization | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Benzyl Alcohol | Preservative and solvent | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer | Film former and thickener | 0.1 – 0.5 |
| Zinc Pyrithione | Anti-dandruff active | 0.5 – 1 |
| Glycerin | Humectant, moisturizing | 1 – 3 |
| Glycol Distearate | Pearlizing agent, opacifier | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Emollient, thickener | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.5 – 1 |
| PEG-150 Distearate | Emulsifier and viscosity modifier | 0.5 – 1 |
| Carbomer | Thickener and stabilizer | 0.2 – 0.6 |
| Cocomonoethanolamide | Foam booster and emulsifier | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Tetrasodium EDTA | Chelating agent to enhance preservative action | 0.05 – 0.15 |
| Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | Conditioning polymer | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Sodium Chloride | Electrolyte, viscosity adjustment | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Prictone Olamine | Anti-dandruff agent, antimicrobial | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Salicylic Acid | Keratolytic agent for dandruff control | 0.5 – 1 |
| Methylchloroisothiazolinone & Methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI) | Preservative | ≤ 0.0015 |
| PEG-45M | Thickener and stabilizer | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Sodium Hydroxide | pH adjuster | q.s. to pH 5.5 – 6.5 |
| Panthenol | Moisturizer and scalp soother | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Perfume | Fragrance for consumer appeal | 0.2 – 0.5 |
| CI 42090 | Synthetic blue colorant | 0.01 – 0.05 |
Formulation Strategy
The formulation is divided into three phases to optimize ingredient stability and compatibility:
- Phase A: Surfactant Base & Cleansing Agents
- Phase B: Conditioning, Anti-dandruff Actives & Stabilizers
- Phase C: Preservatives, pH Adjustment, Fragrance, and Color
Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua | 55 | 55 |
| A | Sodium Laureth Sulfate | 12 | 12 |
| A | Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate | 7 | 7 |
| A | Cocamidopropyl Betaine | 5 | 5 |
| A | Decyl Glucoside | 2 | 2 |
| A | TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate | 1 | 1 |
| A | Laureth-23 | 1 | 1 |
| A | Laureth-4 | 0.7 | 0.7 |
| A | Cocomonoethanolamide | 1 | 1 |
| B | Dimethicone | 1 | 1 |
| B | Amodimethicone | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| B | Dimethiconol | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Zinc Pyrithione | 1 | 1 |
| B | Salicylic Acid | 0.8 | 0.8 |
| B | Prictone Olamine | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Glycerin | 2 | 2 |
| B | Glycol Distearate | 1 | 1 |
| B | Cetyl Alcohol | 1 | 1 |
| B | PEG-150 Distearate | 0.8 | 0.8 |
| B | Carbomer | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| B | Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| B | Tetrasodium EDTA | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| B | Sodium Chloride | 1 | 1 |
| B | PEG-45M | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| C | Benzyl Alcohol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 0.8 | 0.8 |
| C | MCI/MI | 0.0015 | 0.0015 |
| C | Panthenol | 1 | 1 |
| C | Perfume | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | CI 42090 | 0.02 | 0.02 |
| C | Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjust) | q.s. | q.s. |
Manufacturing Protocol for Lab-Scale Batch
Phase A: Surfactant Base
- Heat Aqua to ~60°C with moderate stirring.
- Add Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Laureth-23, Laureth-4, and Cocomonoethanolamide.
- Mix until uniform and clear.
Phase B: Conditioning & Actives
- Slowly add Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, and Dimethiconol under gentle stirring.
- Incorporate Zinc Pyrithione (pre-dispersed), Salicylic Acid, Prictone Olamine, Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-150 Distearate, Carbomer, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, and PEG-45M sequentially.
- Mix thoroughly maintaining temperature at 40–45°C.
Phase C: Preservation & Finalization
- Add Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, and MCI/MI preservative.
- Add Panthenol, perfume, and CI 42090 colorant.
- Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.5 using Sodium Hydroxide solution.
- Cool batch to room temperature.
- Filter if necessary and package under hygienic conditions.
Stability Testing Protocol
| Test | Conditions | Duration | Acceptance Criteria |
| Accelerated Stability | 45°C, ambient humidity | 1 month | No phase separation, color, or odor changes |
| Freeze-Thaw Cycles | -5°C to 25°C, 3 cycles | – | No loss of viscosity or appearance |
| Microbial Challenge | According to USP <51> | – | Preservative efficacy maintained |
| pH Stability | Ambient | 3 months | pH remains within ±0.2 units |
Packaging Suggestions
- Use HDPE or PET bottles with flip-top or pump dispensers for user convenience and product protection.
- Prefer opaque or tinted bottles to prevent zinc pyrithione degradation by light.
Summary
This guide outlines a scientific approach to formulate an extreme defense anti-dandruff shampoo. The synergy of carefully selected surfactants, targeted anti-dandruff agents, conditioning polymers, and moisturizers provides effective dandruff control while ensuring hair softness and scalp health.
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