How to Professionally Formulate a Moisture-Guard Anti-dandruff Shampoo

Introduction

This Moisture-Guard Anti-dandruff Shampoo is formulated to gently cleanse the scalp and hair while controlling dandruff and maintaining the moisture balance. It integrates effective surfactants, conditioning polymers, anti-dandruff actives, botanical extracts, and humectants for a well-rounded product that soothes, refreshes, and nourishes the scalp and hair.


Product Overview & Key Claims

  • Controls dandruff and soothes scalp using Zinc Citrate, Capryloyl Glycine, and Undecylenoyl Glycine
  • Provides gentle yet effective cleansing with Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Conditioning and smoothing effects with Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone, and Polyquaternium-10
  • Enhances moisture retention and hydration with Glycerin and Saccharide Isomerate
  • Enriched with botanical extracts and oils such as Aloe Vera, Tea Tree Oil, Laminaria, Chlorella, and Lavender for scalp and hair health
  • Pleasant fragrance supported by stable colorants (CI 42040 and CI 19140)

Ingredient Functional Roles & Recommended Usage

INCI NameFunctionRecommended Range (% w/w)
AquaSolvent, base50 – 70
Sodium Lauryl Ether SulfateAnionic surfactant, primary cleanser10 – 20
Cocamidopropyl BetaineAmphoteric surfactant, mild cleanser & foam booster5 – 10
DimethiconolSilicone conditioner, smoothness & shine1 – 5
TEA-DodecylbenzenesulfonateAnionic surfactant, foam booster1 – 5
DimethiconeSilicone, conditioning & anti-frizz1 – 5
AmodimethiconeSilicone, conditioning & anti-static0.5 – 3
Laureth-23Nonionic surfactant, co-surfactant1 – 5
Polyquaternium-10Conditioning polymer, detangling0.5 – 3
Laureth-4Nonionic surfactant0.5 – 3
Laureth-5Nonionic surfactant0.5 – 3
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment ExtractBioactive, scalp conditioning0.1 – 0.5
Sodium SalicylateAnti-inflammatory, dandruff control0.2 – 1
Glycol DistearatePearlizing agent, viscosity enhancer1 – 3
Sodium XylenesulfonateSurfactant booster, viscosity control0.5 – 2
GlycerineHumectant, moisture retention2 – 6
PhenoxyethanolPreservative0.5 – 1
Zinc CitrateAnti-dandruff agent0.1 – 0.5
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium ChlorideConditioning polymer, anti-static0.2 – 1
Capryloyl GlycineAnti-dandruff active, scalp soothing0.1 – 0.5
Undecylenoyl GlycineAnti-dandruff active, scalp soothing0.1 – 0.5
Maris Aqua (Sea Water)Mineral-rich water for scalp health1 – 3
Laminaria Digitata ExtractMarine extract, moisturizing & antioxidant0.1 – 0.5
Chlorella Vulgaris ExtractAlgae extract, antioxidant & scalp health0.1 – 0.5
Saccharide IsomerateHumectant, skin & hair moisture0.5 – 2
Lavandula Stoechas ExtractBotanical extract, soothing & fragrance0.1 – 0.5
Aloe Barbadensis ExtractSoothing botanical extract0.5 – 2
Tea Tree OilAnti-microbial, scalp soothing0.1 – 0.5
PEG-45MThickener, stabilizer0.2 – 1
PerfumeFragrance0.2 – 0.5
CI 42040, CI 19140Colorants0.01 – 0.05

Formulation Strategy

This shampoo balances effective anti-dandruff actives with gentle cleansing surfactants and conditioning silicones/polymers. Botanical extracts and humectants provide scalp nourishment and hydration, while pearlizing agents improve aesthetics. The formula emphasizes mildness, hydration, and scalp care.


Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)

PhaseIngredient% w/wAmount (g)
AAqua6060
BSodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate1212
BCocamidopropyl Betaine77
BTEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate33
CDimethiconol33
CDimethicone33
CAmodimethicone1.51.5
DLaureth-2322
DPolyquaternium-101.51.5
DLaureth-411
DLaureth-511
EPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract0.30.3
ESodium Salicylate0.70.7
EGlycol Distearate22
ESodium Xylenesulfonate11
FGlycerine44
GPhenoxyethanol0.80.8
HZinc Citrate0.30.3
HGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride0.50.5
HCapryloyl Glycine0.30.3
HUndecylenoyl Glycine0.30.3
IMaris Aqua (Sea Water)22
ILaminaria Digitata Extract0.30.3
IChlorella Vulgaris Extract0.30.3
ISaccharide Isomerate11
ILavandula Stoechas Extract0.30.3
IAloe Barbadensis Extract11
ITea Tree Oil0.30.3
JPEG-45M0.50.5
KPerfume0.30.3
LCI 42040 + CI 191400.030.03

Manufacturing Protocol

Phase A: Water Phase

  • Heat Aqua to 70°C.
  • Dissolve Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate with stirring.

Phase B: Silicone Phase

  • Blend Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, and Amodimethicone; heat gently to 65°C.

Phase C: Surfactant Boosters & Polymers

  • Add Laureth-23, Laureth-4, Laureth-5, Polyquaternium-10, and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride under agitation.

Phase D: Actives & Extracts

  • Add Zinc Citrate, Sodium Salicylate, Capryloyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl Glycine, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Maris Aqua, Laminaria, Chlorella, Aloe, Tea Tree Oil, Lavandula Stoechas Extract, and Saccharide Isomerate to the water phase.

Phase E: Thickeners & Pearling Agents

  • Incorporate Glycol Distearate, Sodium Xylenesulfonate, and PEG-45M.

Phase F: Combine

  • Slowly add silicone phase to water phase under high shear mixing to form stable emulsion.

Phase G: Cooling & Additives

  • Cool to below 40°C. Add Phenoxyethanol, Perfume, and colorants (CI 42040 & CI 19140).

Stability & Quality Testing

TestConditionsDurationAcceptance Criteria
Accelerated Stability45°C, ambient humidity1 monthNo phase separation or odor change
Freeze-Thaw Cycles-5°C to 25°C, 3 cycles—Stable viscosity and appearance
pH MeasurementAmbient—5.5 – 6.5
Microbial ChallengeUSP <51>—Preservative efficacy confirmed

Packaging Suggestions

  • Use durable, squeezable bottles with flip caps or pumps.
  • Opaque containers protect botanical actives from light degradation.

Summary

This Moisture-Guard Anti-dandruff Shampoo offers a balanced approach to scalp care and dandruff control with gentle cleansing and conditioning ingredients. The blend of anti-dandruff actives, humectants, and botanical extracts provides a refreshing, soothing haircare experience.

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