How to Professionally Formulate a Hair Serum

Introduction

Hair serums are lightweight leave-in treatments designed to provide shine, frizz control, hydration, and nourishment without weighing hair down. A well-formulated hair serum utilizes a blend of silicones, light emollients, and a rich complex of natural oils and botanical extracts to seal moisture, protect hair, and impart softness and gloss. This guide covers formulation principles, ingredient roles, and a prototype batch for a premium hair serum.

Product Overview & Key Claims

A high-quality hair serum:

  • Locks in moisture and prevents frizz in humid environments
  • Delivers lightweight conditioning without heaviness or greasiness
  • Provides shine and softness via silicones and nourishing oils
  • Enriched with a diverse botanical oil blend for deep hair nourishment
  • Contains anti-inflammatory bisabolol and antioxidant-rich plant extracts
  • Leaves hair smooth, manageable, and protected from environmental damage

Ingredient Functional Roles & Recommended Usage

INCI NameFunctionRecommended Range (% w/w)
CyclopentasiloxaneVolatile silicone, lightweight emollient30 – 50
DimethiconolNon-volatile silicone, conditioning agent5 – 15
C15-19 AlkaneEmollient, solvent5 – 10
Isopropyl MyristateEmollient, skin and hair conditioning3 – 8
Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel OilEmollient, antioxidant-rich oil2 – 6
Serenoa Serrulata (Saw Palmetto) OilNourishing oil, scalp health benefits1 – 3
Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed OilEmollient, antioxidant1 – 4
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) OilEmollient, moisturizing oil2 – 5
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) OilEmollient, nourishing oil2 – 5
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilEmollient, antioxidant oil1 – 3
Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed OilEmollient, antioxidant-rich oil1 – 3
BisabololAnti-inflammatory, soothing agent0.1 – 0.5
Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed OilEmollient, conditioning oil1 – 3
Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed OilEmollient, lightweight conditioning oil1 – 3
Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilEmollient, antioxidant1 – 3
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed OilEmollient, nourishing oil1 – 3
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit OilEmollient, antioxidant1 – 3
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilEmollient, conditioning oil1 – 3
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed OilEmollient, antioxidant-rich oil1 – 3
Emblica Officinalis (Amla) Fruit ExtractBotanical extract, antioxidant, hair strengthening0.5 – 1.5
PerfumeFragrance0.2 – 0.5

Formulation Strategy

The hair serum is a clear, lightweight fluid based primarily on volatile and non-volatile silicones combined with a complex blend of nourishing oils. This combination ensures quick absorption, light texture, and a smooth, glossy finish without stickiness or heaviness.

Lab-Scale Batch Formulation Sheet (100 g)

PhaseIngredient% w/wAmount (g)
ACyclopentasiloxane4040
ADimethiconol1010
AC15-19 Alkane77
AIsopropyl Myristate55
BArgania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil44
BSerenoa Serrulata (Saw Palmetto) Oil22
BMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil33
BCocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil33
BPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil33
BHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil22
BSclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil22
BPentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil22
BOrbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil22
BGlycine Soja (Soybean) Oil22
BBrassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil22
BOlea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil22
BSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil22
BSesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil22
CEmblica Officinalis (Amla) Fruit Extract11
CBisabolol0.30.3
CPerfume0.30.3

Manufacturing Protocol

Phase A: Silicone & Emollient Phase

  • Combine Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, C15-19 Alkane, and Isopropyl Myristate in a clean vessel.
  • Mix under moderate agitation until homogeneous and clear.

Phase B: Botanical Oil Blend

  • Mix all natural oils together separately.
  • Ensure oils are pure, filtered, and warmed if needed to ensure fluidity.

Phase C: Active & Fragrance Addition

  • Add Bisabolol, Amla Fruit Extract, and Perfume to Phase B under gentle mixing.

Final Blending

  • Slowly combine Phase B + C into Phase A under gentle agitation.
  • Mix until a clear, uniform serum is obtained.

Stability & Quality Testing

TestConditionsDurationAcceptance Criteria
Accelerated Stability45°C, ambient humidity1 monthClear, no cloudiness or separation
Freeze-Thaw Cycles-5°C to 25°C, 3 cyclesRemains clear and stable
ViscosityAmbient3 monthsConsistent low-viscosity fluid
Microbial ChallengeUSP <51>Preservative efficacy maintained

Packaging Suggestions

  • Use clear glass or PET bottles with pump dispensers or dropper caps for controlled application.
  • Amber or UV-protective packaging recommended to preserve botanical actives.

Summary

This hair serum is designed as a luxurious, lightweight leave-in treatment that tames frizz, adds shine, and nourishes hair using a well-balanced combination of volatile silicones, conditioning polymers, and a rich blend of natural oils and botanical extracts. The formula delivers both immediate cosmetic benefits and long-term hair health support, suitable for all hair types, especially dry or frizz-prone hair.

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