Introduction
A well-formulated face wash is the foundation of any skincare regimen. A deep cleansing face wash targets thorough pore cleansing, oil control, and skin calming. This formulation uses a multi-surfactant system enriched with Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, and Licorice Extract, ideal for acne-prone and oily skin types. This guide outlines an approach for cosmetic chemists to develop a stable, effective, and sensorially pleasing product compliant with global standards (EU, ASEAN, India).
Product Overview & Key Claims
This cleanser is designed to:
- Deep clean pores and remove excess oil
- Gently exfoliate with Salicylic Acid
- Calm and brighten with Niacinamide and Licorice Extract
- Maintain a non-drying, skin-friendly pH
- Offer a refreshing sensorial experience
Ingredient Breakdown, Functional Roles & Recommended Usage
| INCI Name | Function | Recommended % w/w |
| Aqua (Water) | Base solvent | q.s. to 100 |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate | Primary anionic surfactant | 10–15 |
| Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate | Mild amino acid surfactant | 3–5 |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Amphoteric co-surfactant | 2–5 |
| Decyl Glucoside | Mild non-ionic surfactant | 1–4 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | Secondary non-ionic surfactant | 1–3 |
| Acrylates Copolymer | Rheology modifier, thickener | 0.5–1.5 |
| Salicylic Acid | Exfoliant (BHA) | 0.5–2 |
| Niacinamide | Brightening & barrier repair | 2–5 |
| Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate | Anti-inflammatory, soothing | 0.2–1 |
| Chlorphenesin | Preservative booster | 0.2–0.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Broad-spectrum preservative | 0.8–1 |
| Methylchloroisothiazolinone & Methylisothiazolinone | Preservative (use with caution) | 0.001–0.01 |
| Tetrasodium EDTA | Chelating agent | 0.05–0.2 |
| Perfume | Fragrance | 0.2–0.5 |
| Colorant | Aesthetic enhancer | q.s. |
Sample Lab-Scale Formula (100 g)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Aqua (Water) | 65.0 | 65.0 |
| A | Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28%) | 12.0 | 12.0 |
| A | Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate | 4.0 | 4.0 |
| A | Cocamidopropyl Betaine | 4.0 | 4.0 |
| A | Decyl Glucoside | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| A | Lauryl Glucoside | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| A | Tetrasodium EDTA | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| A | Acrylates Copolymer | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| B | Salicylic Acid | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| B | Niacinamide | 3.0 | 3.0 |
| B | Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| B | Chlorphenesin | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| B | Phenoxyethanol | 0.8 | 0.8 |
| B | MIT/CMIT | 0.01 | 0.01 |
| C | Fragrance | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | Color (CI based) | q.s. | 0.1 |
| Total | 100.0 | 100.0 |
Processing Instructions
- Phase A – Surfactant Base
- In a primary vessel, mix water and EDTA. Heat to 40–45°C.
- Slowly add Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, and Lauryl Glucoside under gentle stirring to minimize foam.
- Disperse and fully hydrate Acrylates Copolymer.
- Phase B – Actives & Preservatives
- Dissolve Salicylic Acid in minimal propylene glycol or pre-neutralized solution (adjust pH if needed).
- Add Niacinamide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, Phenoxyethanol, MIT/CMIT, and Chlorphenesin.
- Combine Phase B into Phase A slowly with gentle stirring.
- Phase C – Finishing
- Adjust pH to 4.5–5.5 for product stability and optimal BHA activity.
- Add fragrance and colorant.
- Allow the product to rest for deaeration before filling.
pH & Viscosity Guidelines
| Parameter | Target Range |
| pH | 4.5 – 5.5 |
| Viscosity | 2,000 – 4,000 cP (Brookfield, 25°C) |
Stability & Safety Testing Plan
| Test | Condition | Criteria |
| Accelerated Stability | 40°C, 75% RH for 3 months | No separation or color change |
| Freeze–Thaw | 3 cycles -5°C/25°C | Stable texture |
| Preservative Efficacy Test | ISO 11930 | Pass |
| Microbial Load | <100 CFU/g | Compliant |
| Heavy Metals | ICP-MS | Within legal limits |
| Skin Irritation | Patch Test | Non-irritant |
Regulatory Notes
- Use MIT/CMIT at ultra-low levels and only in rinse-off products.
- Declare fragrance allergens for EU compliance.
- Limit salicylic acid to ≤2% in EU cosmetic products.
- Include warnings such as For External Use Only and Avoid Eye Contact on packaging.
Packaging Ideas
- Use soft squeeze tubes or pump bottles with foaming dispensers for premium user experience.
- Employ color-coded packaging to reflect the product’s calming, evening skincare positioning.
Innovation Tips
- Incorporate Willow Bark Extract as a natural source of salicylates for marketing appeal.
- Substitute Sodium Laureth Sulfate with Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate for a sulfate-free claim.
- Explore mild exfoliating beads or enzymes for enhanced cleansing benefits.
- Develop complementary products such as toners or night gels to create a full skincare regimen.
Final Thoughts
Formulating a deep cleansing face wash with balanced surfactant synergy, active stabilization, and elegant sensorial properties requires careful ingredient selection and process control. This guide helps formulators design a product that delivers effective cleansing and skin benefits, suitable for diverse regulatory markets.
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