Introduction
Brightening night creams are a vital part of advanced skincare regimens, offering antioxidant protection, deep hydration, and skin tone improvement while the skin regenerates overnight. This guide outlines a professional approach to formulating a high-performance night cream featuring stabilized Vitamin C derivatives, niacinamide, and sensory-enhancing emollients, ideal for commercial or private label manufacturing.
Product Overview & Key Claims
This Vitamin C-based brightening night cream features a lightweight, non-greasy texture designed for overnight skin renewal with the following benefits:
- ✅ Vitamin C-Powered Brightening: Features stable forms like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
- ✅ Barrier-Repair Moisturization: Includes emollients like Liquid Paraffin, Dimethicone, and Glycerin
- ✅ Skin Tone Evening: Achieved through Niacinamide and botanical extracts
- ✅ Silky Afterfeel: Delivered by silicones and lightweight esters
Ingredient Analysis, Functional Roles, and Recommended Amounts
| INCI Name | Function | Recommended Range (% w/w) |
| Aqua | Solvent (base) | q.s. to 100 |
| Liquid Paraffin | Occlusive emollient | 5.00 – 10.00 |
| Sodium Polyacrylate | Thickener/emulsion stabilizer | 0.2 – 0.5 |
| Dimethicone | Silicone emollient | 1.00 – 3.00 |
| Cyclopentasiloxane | Volatile silicone, silky texture | 2.00 – 4.00 |
| Trideceth-6 | Surfactant/emulsifier for silicones | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone | Silicone emulsifier/humectant | 1.00 – 2.00 |
| Glyceryl Stearate | Emulsifier, skin softener | 1.00 – 2.00 |
| Ceteareth-25 | Nonionic emulsifier, thickener | 1.00 – 2.50 |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Co-emulsifier, viscosity enhancer | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Glycerin | Humectant | 2.00 – 4.00 |
| Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil | Natural emollient | 1.00 – 3.00 |
| Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride | Emollient ester | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Glyceryl Isostearate | Emollient, co-emulsifier | 0.5 – 1.5 |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative | 0.8 – 1.0 |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Stable Vitamin C derivative | 0.5 – 1.0 |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Highly stable brightening Vitamin C | 0.2 – 0.8 |
| Citrus Junos Fruit Extract | Natural brightening extract | 0.2 – 0.5 |
| Niacinamide | Brightening agent, barrier support | 2.00 – 5.00 |
| Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent | 0.05 – 0.15 |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | Thickener, stabilizer | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Perfume | Fragrance | 0.1 – 0.3 |
| Colorants | Visual appeal | q.s. (0.01 – 0.05) |
Formulation Strategy
Phase A – Oil Phase
Incorporates all oil-soluble ingredients including emulsifiers, esters, and silicones.
Phase B – Water Phase
Includes humectants, niacinamide, chelators, and water-soluble ingredients.
Phase C – Post-Emulsion Additions
Sensitive and heat-labile components such as Vitamin C derivatives, fragrance, and pH adjusters.
Lab-Scale Batch (100 g Example)
| Phase | Ingredient | % w/w | Amount (g) |
| A | Liquid Paraffin | 6.0 | 6.0 |
| A | Dimethicone | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| A | Cyclopentasiloxane | 3.0 | 3.0 |
| A | Trideceth-6 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| A | PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| A | Glyceryl Stearate | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| A | Ceteareth-25 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| A | Cetyl Alcohol | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| B | Aqua (Water) | q.s. | 72.6 |
| B | Glycerin | 3.0 | 3.0 |
| B | Niacinamide | 3.0 | 3.0 |
| B | Disodium EDTA | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| B | Sodium Polyacrylate | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | 0.8 | 0.8 |
| C | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | Citrus Junos Fruit Extract | 0.3 | 0.3 |
| C | Phenoxyethanol | 0.9 | 0.9 |
| C | Perfume | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| C | Colorants | 0.02 | 0.02 |
Manufacturing Protocol
- Phase A – Oil Phase
Heat ingredients to 75–80°C under moderate stirring until uniform. - Phase B – Water Phase
Heat water phase ingredients to 70–75°C and mix until fully dissolved. - Emulsification
Slowly add Phase B to Phase A under high-shear mixing (~70°C) to form a stable emulsion. - Cooling Phase
Cool mixture to ~40°C and add Phase C ingredients. Stir gently to avoid aeration. - pH Adjustment
Adjust pH to 5.0–6.0 using citric acid or sodium hydroxide if necessary. - Filling
Fill into sanitized airless packaging under hygienic conditions.
Stability Testing Protocol
| Test | Condition | Timepoints | Acceptance Criteria |
| Appearance | 5°C, 25°C, 40°C | 0, 1, 3, 6 months | No separation, color/odor changes |
| pH | Room temperature | Monthly | Within range: 5.0–6.0 |
| Viscosity | Room temperature | Monthly | ±10% variation |
| Freeze–Thaw | -5°C / 25°C (3 cycles) | Post cycles | No phase separation or breakdown |
| Microbial Load | ISO 11930 | Initial | Must pass preservative efficacy test |
Safety Summary
| Ingredient | Safety Notes |
| Silicones | Low irritation, enhances sensorial feel |
| Niacinamide | Safe up to 5%, avoid prolonged high-heat exposure |
| Vitamin C Derivatives | Stable within specific pH; low irritation |
| Phenoxyethanol | EU-approved; max usage at 1% |
| Perfume | Use allergen-compliant fragrance (IFRA standards) |
Packaging Guidelines
- Use airless pumps or opaque tubes to limit oxidation of Vitamin C.
- Avoid clear jars unless product has proven photostability.
- Conduct compatibility tests under accelerated aging.
Regulatory Compliance
- ✅ EU: Compliant with EC No. 1223/2009
- ✅ India: Conforms with BIS & DCA Guidelines
- ✅ ASEAN: ACD Annexes compliant
Ensure the following for market readiness:
- Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)
- Full ingredient traceability and batch documentation
- Proper labeling (INCI names, expiry date, usage)
- ISO 11930 Preservative Efficacy Test (PET)
Optimization & Innovation Ideas
- Add Panthenol or Hyaluronic Acid for extra hydration
- Replace mineral oil with plant oils (e.g., jojoba, almond) for a natural claim
- Use natural preservatives (e.g., Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment) for clean beauty
- Incorporate probiotics or prebiotics for microbiome support
Final Thoughts
Formulating a brightening Vitamin C night cream requires balancing efficacy, sensory feel, and stability. By following this professional guide, chemists can create a safe, elegant, and market-ready product that meets modern skincare expectations.
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