How to Professionally Formulate a Body Lotion

Introduction

This body lotion is a hydrating and skin-softening emulsion tailored for daily moisturization. It combines emollients such as Liquid Paraffin, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, and Sunflower Seed Oil with powerful humectants like Glycerin, Sodium PCA, and Pentylene Glycol. The formulation is enriched with sugar-derived moisturizers (Xylitylglucoside, Xylitol, Anhydroxylitol) and Sodium Hyaluronate, offering both immediate and long-lasting hydration.
This guide outlines the cosmetic chemist’s roadmap to develop a lotion with luxurious texture and effective hydrating performance.


Product Overview & Key Claims

  • ✅ Long-lasting hydration with sugar-derived humectants
  • ✅ Softens and nourishes skin with Shea Butter and Sunflower Oil
  • ✅ Enhances skin elasticity and barrier function
  • ✅ Light, non-greasy, fast-absorbing finish
  • ✅ Suitable for all skin types, including dry and sensitive

Ingredient Breakdown, Roles & Recommended Usage

INCI NameFunctionRecommended % w/w
AquaSolvent (water phase)q.s. to 100
Liquid ParaffinOcclusive emollient3–6
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic TriglycerideLightweight emollient2–5
Glyceryl IsostearateEmulsifier, skin feel enhancer0.5–2
Ceteareth-25Emulsifier1–3
Cetyl AlcoholThickener, stabilizer0.5–2
Glycol StearatePearlizing agent, co-emulsifier1–2
Sodium PolyacrylateRheology modifier0.3–1
DimethiconeSilicone emollient0.5–2
Trideceth-6Solubilizer0.2–0.8
PEG/PPG-18/18 DimethiconeEmulsifying silicone0.3–1
GlycerinHumectant3–5
Pentylene GlycolHumectant, preservative booster1–3
Fructose, Maltose, GlucoseHumectants (saccharides)0.2–0.5 each
Sodium PCA, Sodium LactateNMF components0.5–1 each
TrehaloseMoisturizing sugar0.5–1
AllantoinSoothing agent0.2–0.5
Sodium HyaluronateHydration booster0.05–0.2
Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Maltitol, XylitolMoisturizing sugar complex1–3 (total)
Helianthus Annuus Seed OilEmollient (natural oil)1–3
Butyrospermum Parkii ButterNourishing emollient1–3
PhenoxyethanolPreservative0.8–1
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerThickener/stabilizer0.1–0.5
PerfumeFragrance0.2–0.5
ColorAesthetic enhancerq.s.

Sample Lab-Scale Formula (100 g)

PhaseIngredient% w/wAmount (g)
AAqua58.058.0
AGlycerin3.03.0
APentylene Glycol1.51.5
ASodium PCA0.50.5
ASodium Lactate0.50.5
ATrehalose0.50.5
AGlucose0.30.3
AFructose0.30.3
AMaltose0.30.3
AAllantoin0.30.3
AAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer0.30.3
BLiquid Paraffin4.04.0
BCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride2.02.0
BButyrospermum Parkii Butter2.02.0
BSunflower Seed Oil2.02.0
BCetyl Alcohol1.01.0
BGlycol Stearate1.01.0
BCeteareth-251.51.5
BGlyceryl Isostearate1.01.0
BDimethicone1.01.0
BPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone0.50.5
BTrideceth-60.30.3
CXylitylglucoside0.60.6
CAnhydroxylitol0.60.6
CMaltitol0.40.4
CXylitol0.40.4
CSodium Hyaluronate0.10.1
CPhenoxyethanol0.80.8
CPerfume0.30.3
CColorq.s.0.1
Total100100

Processing Instructions

  1. Phase A – Water Phase
    1. Heat water to 70–75°C.
    1. Add humectants (glycerin, pentylene glycol, sugars, sodium PCA/lactate).
    1. Disperse Acrylates Copolymer with stirring until clear.
    1. Add Allantoin and mix until dissolved.
  2. Phase B – Oil Phase
    1. In a separate vessel, combine all oil-phase ingredients.
    1. Heat to 70–75°C until melted and uniform.
  3. Emulsification
    1. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A under high-shear mixing (homogenizer or rotor-stator) to form an emulsion.
    1. Maintain temperature at 70°C during emulsification.
  4. Cool Down Phase C
    1. When batch cools below 40°C, add sugar moisturizers, Sodium Hyaluronate, preservative, fragrance, and color.
    1. Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 if required.
  5. Finalizing
    1. Mix gently to ensure uniformity.
    1. Cool to room temperature and fill into suitable containers.

pH & Viscosity Guidelines

ParameterTarget
pH5.0 – 5.5
Viscosity8,000 – 15,000 cP (Brookfield, 25°C)

Stability & Safety Testing Plan

TestConditionGoal
Accelerated Stability40°C, 3 monthsStable emulsion
Freeze–Thaw3 cyclesNo separation
Preservative EfficacyISO 11930Pass
Skin IrritationPatch TestNon-irritant
Microbial Load<100 CFU/gCompliant

Packaging Suggestions

  • Use airless pumps or squeezable tubes to maintain hygiene.
  • Opaque bottles are preferred to protect light-sensitive ingredients like hyaluronate.

Innovation Opportunities

  • Introduce ceramides or niacinamide for barrier-repair claims.
  • Offer seasonal variants: Cooling Lotion for Summer, Extra Rich for Winter.
  • Develop an SPF-infused version for all-in-one body care.

Final Thoughts

This guide enables cosmetic chemists to develop a hydrating and sensorially rich body lotion. The balance of emollients, humectants, and sugar-derived moisturizers creates a standout daily-care formulation suitable for all skin types.

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